IN TUNE: T-Bolts!

Not long ago, every snowboard company made boards with unique hole patterns that were designed to work exclusively with their binders. This meant that Company A’s boards didn’t accept Brand B’s binders, and furthermore, most companies didn’t really provide a lot of stance options with their stock insert offerings. This greatly stifled experimentation, and as flips and spins replaced rudimentary grabs as the cutting-edge tricks, riders needed specialized stances that were wider and more functional. Riders turned to the hardware store for a solution and found the thru-bolt—also known as the t-bolt. In no time, riders could conjure up stances that suited their individual product needs and riding styles to a (ahem) T!

Companies soon caught on to the unlimited stance option concept and introduced the three- and four-hole patterns, alleviating most needs for any insert modifications. So, why in the world would the riders of today want to know how to t-bolt a board? There are a few reasons, actually. Let’s say (as in our example below) you have a great classic board that you want to ride, but you can’t get your favorite bindings to work on it. Fear not, my friends: T-bolts to the rescue! Also, if you cross-thread an insert or if you simply want an odd stance, t-bolts are your savior. T-bolting is one of those skills that gives you ultimate flexibility and can extend the life of your fourth-generation hand-me-down board for another few seasons.

Before bolting, make sure that you have the right tools.

TOOLS

1. POWER DRILL
2. T-BOLTS
There are special t-bolts made for this application that already have P-Tex on the bottom. You can order these on-line or beg/borrow/steal them from your local shop. Getting the right t-bolts is critical. Tell the tech what you are trying to do and they can help you out.
3. DRILL BITS
You need a small one to make pilot holes and a big, special one for doing the counter-sinking on the base. This is just as important as getting the proper t-bolts. Make sure that you get the right bits that go with your bolts. (The ski shop or hardware store guy can help you get this figured out.) If you don’t have the right countersinking bit, you’re going to end up with a mess.
4. SAFETY GLASSES
Because we have lawyers on staff that actually read this column sometimes.
5. TAPE MEASURE
6. MALLET
Please, an actual mallet, not a hammer. Steal one from your neighbor.
7. SHARPIE
8. BINDINGS, DISCS, SCREWS, ETC

INSTRUCTIONS

1. MARK YOUR TERRITORY
Locate the center of your board. This is the reference for where you are going to mount your bindings. To find it, put your board on its edge on a flat surface and mark the two contact points (the widest points of the nose and tail). The center of this mark is the true center of your board.

From this point, measure out your stance and note the locations for your front and rear bindings. Mark the center of where you want your discs to go.

Next, place your disc on this spot and make marks for where the screws will go. This is where you are going to drill.

2. GETTING DRILLED

Now it’s time to get serious. Put the small bit in the drill and (slowly and carefully) drill—top down!—until you have eight clean holes going right through your board. Though you have just drilled all the way through a snowboard, take a deep breath and relax. It’s going to be okay—I promise.

Now, flip your board over, put in the counter-sinking bit (the big bit) in your drill, and countersink each hole. The point here is to make enough room in the base material to barely fit your t-bolts, and to do this without actually damaging your core.

3. HAMMER TIME

Take the t-bolts and press fit them into the base. They should wedge in just a bit. Once they are in place, you need to get a mallet (not a hammer) and pound those suckers in. If everything goes according to plan, they should all slide into place with just a bit of force and end up being fairly even with your base. Note that no glue is required here. The right t-bolts will dig into the core so that they won’t spin, and they will sit perfectly against your base, so no P-Tex is required. Sick.

4. FINISHING

While not absolutely necessary, now is a good time for a board tune. Get your base ground (professionally ground) and get that thing waxed up. When it’s done, you shouldn’t even know that the t-bolts are there.

5. MOUNT AND GO

Mount up your binders in your new inserts, feel stoked and smarter, and go test out your 27” spin-to-win stance. See if you can be the first of your crew to pull off an ollie 1080.

T-bolting may not be something you need to do all the time, but it’s good to know how to, just in case.

Stay strong, don’t forget to tighten your screws, and oh yeah, after t-bolting, you can kiss your board’s warranty goodbye!